Eurwoes

This unsuspecting, happy tourist who doesn't believe in pick-pocketers despite the signs everywhere in three or four languages warning all tourists, had his wallet slipped from his pocket by a savvy, Parisian, femme in the subway station, Abbesses atop Montmartre just before his long descent into the depths of the deepest Metro station in all of Paris, where he discovered the atrocity, a missing wallet. No more Euros!!!!! And it's been one thing after another since, financially speaking. I forgot my pin number, having not used it in months, then my credit card was canceled by the bank, due to irregular activity. I called to ask why it wasn't working. Apparently someone used it in a grocery store in France. Never mind the fact that it was the same grocery store in France that it has been being used in since September. I had another that did work, and they're sending me a new pin number. We've had more occasions for the use of cash in the past two weeks than we could ever imagine though. Luckily Caroline and Tom have loaned us plenty. Just last night we went out to eat for dinner at a restaurant here in Cluny knowing my credit card was working again, and having a back up one we felt safe in ordering plenty of food and drinks, and dessert for the children while we drank even more. I managed to correct an error on the bill and the server, said, "Oh, excuse-moi" and ran off to correct it, then returned to inform us that my card didn't work. They tried both. Neither worked. Caleb left me to beg more money off Caroline and Tom who luckily were home with cash. I stayed to speak drunk French to the server all the while, and believe me I didn't shut up the whole time, How Embarrassing, small town, will have to see these people again , and again. At night as I fall asleep, I have French running through my head. I have these great conversations with myself. In the day I think every thing I say to the kids over again in French, usually muttering it to them as they don't usually want to hear it, though Sofie can count to ten in French now which is close to how high she can count in English. But then when I have an opportunity to speak to someone, it comes out so pathetically, maybe partly to do with the embarrassing nature of the situation already, maybe due to the half a bottle of Bourgogne. Who's to say really? Looking for more people to talk to. In Paris people often meet to speak French half time and Onglais the other half so they can both improve their skills. I need to find a place to hang a sign around here for this purpose.

Shannon et Caleb apprennent le francais

Caleb and I are studiously studying Martine. Caleb is reading "Martine fait de la bicyclette" and I am reading "Martine apprend a nager." Our books are above Sofie's reading level but way below Anja's. Anja's not even entertained when we are able to translate rapidly, as rare as that is. But we keep reading. 501 French verbs is good reading when one needs a break from the vigor of Martine. Caleb is impressed that I can even look at the verb book, but Anja and I just finished Anne Frank and she was studying and learning five irregular French verbs a day while in hiding so I figure it can't hurt to try anyway.

Cluny for Christmas!!

This is our new living Christmas tree. We got it today. We all went to the Intermarche and picked it out. Then Caleb was a sight to behold riding it home on his bicycle. He says it is the first Sapin de Noel that he has ever bought because he always cuts them down, or his dad does from their own yard. I never bought a tree either because we didn't have to buy a tree each year due to the fact that we put the same tree together each December with color coded branch ends sliding neatly into the metal trunk. Anyway, however the tree is done, it is always magical. We have to find lights for it tomorrow and make decorations. But it is nice as is too. That's Dora, the advent calender hanging on the wall in the background, and a leaf Anja pressed before we left for Paris. The leaves have fallen now. We returned home from Paris last night to a delicious dinner prepared by Tom, and Caroline made dessert too. Also we have new lighting all over our house, and there was a jar of Miso Caroline had bought me at the health food store in Macon when she went. Felt like Christmas. Speaking of which, there is a festival of Lumiere this weekend with much singing and dancing. I thought the festivals would slow down as we entered the winter months, but they keep on coming here in Cluny.

Photography Musee

Yesterday we went to the photography museum. There was a temporary exhibit from Harlem which was very popular. There were a few permanent exhibits that were quite intense. One was Larry Clarke who did the movie "Kids" with Gus Van Sant. He got started in photography when he was a teenager as a way of dealing with his increasing awareness of the sad realities around him and the hypocrisy of the society around him in denying these sad truths. There were many pictures of his age mates, pregnant, shooting speed, holding guns... It wasn't exactly appropriate for children especially ours since it was all in English. Then there was an exhibit of art / photos by a young schizophrenic man who believed religion was the root of all evil, not crazy in and of itself (have you all purchased, "God Wants You Dead" yet?) He died in his twenties due to malnutrition as he failed to feed himself after his mother died, who he buried under the stairs as he was unwilling to give up her body. He did get permission to do this. His father hanged himself, and I guess he didn't fall to far from the tree. There was another all nude exhibit which was very tasteful and elegant. After the girls and I were finished with our educational cultural experience we went on to the Red Wheelbarrow bookstore, one of my favorites so far of the english bookstores we've toured, though it was entirely new books. Caleb went on to the Picasso museum where his less delicate psyche (we hope) was bombarded with exhibits on both Bosnia and Rwanda. I thought perhaps they could put a sign at the exit, Coming Soon - Iraq and Darfur!!! Sounds like a heavy day, but we had a great time. Interesting to look at the problems of the U.S. from afar surrounded by this more pro-active climate. Was fun to go to a museum a little off the tourist track, atleast this time of year.

Musee des Herbes

This picture is from a children's exhibit of art by Matisse, at the Musee des Herbes. I thought there might be herbs at the museum of herbs but it turns out an Herbe is a french expression for someone, of any age, developing their talent, according to the man working there. I was again impressed in my own very limited ability to read French that allowed us to understand the exhibits and perform the activities designated for each. The guy who sold us the tickets and explained the word herbe thought it would be more of a problem, probably due to the fact that we didn't even try our limited French with him. Sometimes it gets exhausting attempting to speak French and then having people reply in perfect English, only in Paris, so you start in English on these occasions, and often they speak only French, but in this instance, we got lucky, bon chance! The musee was lovely. Art is more highly respected here, and consequently many people are very creative. It is great how they teach art history and style to children.

Palais de la Decouverte

Today we went to the Palais de la Decouverte. It's a hands on museum, they say the first, first where I do not know. It is similar to the Exploratorium in San Francisco except you have to read French or know what you're learning when you press the button. I can read a little French and Caleb seems to know what we're learning when we press the buttons, so we passed.

for paying customers only

Today we went to Cookie's for lunch. Cookie is a friend of the family. He made us a delicious salad, and gave us more ideas of things to do and places to see. After lunch we went to another English bookstore, Tea and Tattered Pages, where I may not be welcome again. Gotta love the anonymity of the city. Anja had to use the bathroom soon after leaving the bookstore and went back as we knew they had one for customers and we had just purchased four books. The woman was giving her a lecture when I walked in, "not a public restroom, blah blah blah" so I gave her a lecture of my own, and she then used the bathroom. I was much better behaved in this instance than I was at a restaurant near the Saint Michel the other day where she was not allowed to use the bathroom. Luckily everyone understands English swear words so there was no problem communicating with him. It is tres difficile to be a tourist with stomach issues. But with a mother like me I guess she doesn't have to worry about defending herself. Luckily, She does not yet get embarrassed of us. That's gonna be tough. I vaguely remember a poem or saying on Jane Flood's fridge that said something about being nice to people or not judging them as you really don't know their story. I believe in this in most instances. Though sometimes when they are clearly not living by this rule, it becomes too difficult to stretch your imagination to think what ailment or sadness they have in their life causing them to be such pricks. Though for the most part, people have been very nice, and the bathroom issue is true in all cities, annoying for some, agonizing for anyone with stomach or bladder problems. I prefer a business that will re-direct than one that will just say, "No" or "Only for paying customers."