Happy Halloween!

Your Money or Your Life, was what the nice (and English speaking) German homeschooling family told us how to say in French rather than trick or treat. We assumed they were joking and continued with "Trick or Treat." "Plus de Bonbons," was what the signs said when the stores ran out of bonbons. We assumed it meant more candy, until we learned it meant no more candy. Still, we had a decent haul especially for Europe, as Halloween is frowned upon by some. Most of the children were rather scary unlike our cuties. The other children were probably working to be authentic. We were able to unabashedly speak English saying, "Happy Halloween," and "Trick or Treat" as it is an American holiday, we knew we weren't doing it incorrectly, for once.

Anja is Nine

We followed tradition and spent what felt like the entire day making a cake. Anja, Sofie, and I baked a chocolate thunder bunny cake for Anja' birthday. The candles were magique and re-lit and sparkled like the fourth of July. Anja was quite pleased with the beaucoup cadeaux. She thought it better than last year's Christmas. Her dad got her a model of the Orianna, a cruise ship he rode from San Francisco to Australia when he was five. They are excited to get started on it. He was very surprised to find it in a model shop in Macon complete with directions in Onglais. She got a book, "Charmed Life" from Caroline and Tom. She is already reading the seventh Harry Potter book for the sixth time, "Wise Child" which I read to her once, "The Book of Three" that my friend Angela gave her and I am reading her Anne Frank's diary to top it all off. We had a really lovely birthday party for her with all of her favorite foods, latkes, noodles, salmon, peas, and nachos. She loves the carbs. We followed it up with the cake and two kinds of sorbet, Raspberry and Mango. Happy Birthday, Anja!!

What's for Lunch?

The time difference between Europe and the U.S. has been reduced for one week only so get your communication while the getting is good. I wonder if this disturbs the business world. Is this another thing we can thank the Bush-man for? Is he still speaking in clicks, not to insult the Kalahari, they are far less primitive and primitive isn't a bad thing so long as you're not trying to run a corporation, oh I mean a country.
I can laugh from afar, living under Sarkozy I hear is not much better, but the people here are not in a frenzy with code orange and Al-Quaeda breathing down their TV sets. They have different worries like, "How am I going to get to dejeuner (lunch) at precisely twelve so there will be a table left in the restaurant for me and they will be serving food. You may laugh, but this is a very real concern, maybe not for the Natives, but we find it quite challenging as foreigners. Things are quite different. I hear the unemployed are paid. I imagine taxes are very high though there is no noticeable sales tax added on at the time of purchase. Servers are paid, one does not tip, I have been told by three or four people. I keep asking to make sure this is widely believed.
I don't know how the restaurants stay in business. They serve lunch filling all their tables once. The people sit for a full two hours at lunch time. And lunch is served, then the restaurant does not serve anything for a spell. The customers clear out, the staff will sit down at a table and smoke and send you away if you say anything about eating (mange). Then some restaurants will serve ham and cheese sandwiches or waffles until 7 pm when dinner begins.
We have not been so daring as to attempt dinner yet. I'm sure we will give it a shot in Paris, if not before. Most of the businesses in Cluny are closed Saturday afternoon through Tuesday morning. Though the Inter Marche is open most of the time, even during dejeuner which is a particularly quiet time to shop. Now that we are card carrying members, we could tour all of France by InterMarche, though being loyalists the card is good for only one.

Concert in Cluny

Yesterday we went to see Yvan Rebroff Cournee de prestige-- in Cluny at the Eglise Notre-Dame, one of the churches right by us. It was a big event, hundreds of people packed in to the church. Sofie had to leave in the middle of the first set. The rest of us enjoyed it, Caleb and I taking turns with Sofie of course. This is one of many lovely things about having a place to stay right in town. Very easy on the children and in turn, on us. I really enjoyed listening to Yvan Rebroff speak because I was pleasantly surprised that I could understand him so well. He is a Russian man so his French is not fluent, and he spoke very slowly. I of course didn't understand everything he said, but my vocabulary is growing and when French is spoken this slowly, it becomes much more clear and obvious. I should take Rebecca's advise and go to Geneva where they speak slow French. My teacher says in Marseille, they pronounce every syllable also. In Paris, it is the opposite. I equate this to the North and South United States, though I don't know if they are said to have a drawl in the south of France (Marseille).
We are still enjoying the delicious Walnuts. Everyone in France harvests their own from the many trees. Rather refreshing, as in California, I felt we had to be sly about harvesting fruit that would otherwise be left to rot on the tree. We asked permission of course at many places, but still felt odd about it, whereas here it is the norm. An American mind like my own would think this would only increase the competition, but there is plenty to go round as always.

Taking it slow in Cluny. We did go to Macon the other day, half hour by bus, it's where the TGV (the fast train) station and the regular gare (train station) are located. There was an incredible museum there with ancient roman items from an archaelogical dig in Macon as well as old French historical items, and beautiful art from various periods. It was very impressive for a museum in a town the size of Santa Rosa. There is a major river- the SAONE running through there that they had crew races on and there was a display about the regattas and the making of the bateaux (boats). I feel bad I haven't yet learned how to type some of the lovely accents I've learned, to go with my few French words. We ate at an irregular hour in Macon as the last bus was leaving for Cluny at 7:30. The only restaurant open was Turkish. The Turks present - owner and a couple customers were highly entertained with My few Turkish words. They were perhaps a little homesick and very nice. I may have spoke more Turkish than French there as one of them spoke English and wanted to talk about his latest visit to Marmaris where I went with my dad in '95 so I am of course an expert on the location. When we left they all sat down together to discuss the finer points of Turkey and their longings for home, I imagine. We foreigners brought them all together at the same table at any rate. Before this they were sitting separately and watching CNN Turk.
Macon was quite lively compared to Cluny. We spent most of our time in the tourist area which is a nice little place for relaxed shopping where the voitures don't drive so the personnes do not have to worry about their spastic four year olds getting run over. We may have to go back there to shop before October 30th as it is someone's birthday coming up and we haven't bought her a single item, possibly due to the not so long ago haul of too much stuff from the Netherlands to Cluny, France which was no easy feat and not soon to be forgotten. I am missing California finally. Last but not least in the missing department here. Sofie was first to miss California or perhaps Caleb was, but Sofie was first to admit it. Anja is a regular traveller / gypsy. She and I could travel indefinitely, I think. Of course we would have to return to some places over and over again i.e. California, Michigan, etc...
The business hours are very regular and consistent here. All the stores are closed for a two hour lunch 12-2 every day. This is when the restaurants are serving lunch. Before or after this time the restaurants serve mainly drinks and little snacks or sandwiches. You can only eat the Plat du Jour and other entrees during Lunch and then again at 7 pm or later for dinner. It is amazing how long it takes to get used to their schedule when you are a spoiled convenience- addictted, regular American citizen. We are planning a trip to Paris next, we think.

au'jour 'dui or something like that....

All is well in Cluny. It was a rather gray, cool day but still a happy one. Sofie and Caleb went for a bike ride to the skate park where she went roller blading and then they watched the horses jump near the Voie Vert where we ride bikes. Anja and I worked on math and cooking. I discovered many delicious grains that even I can eat at the farmer's market this morning like Millet, Amaranth, Quinoa, and Brown rice (first time I've seen it here). I bought beaucoup vegetables including squash and Chard which we ate with the delicious brown rice for dinner. I walked the old woman and her sacs home this morning and she was extremely concerned about the plant she gave Caroline which as far as I can tell looks the same as it did when Caroline left. I was forewarned by Caroline that this woman has specific instructions for the plant which may be why I was able to understand her goings on about the plant- le fleur. I don't know this woman's name, but appreciate her in that she talks and talks to me about things like le fleur until I fully understand, which of course most people wouldn't have the patience or shall I say, motivation to do so. I certainly checked to make sure the plant had water still when I got back from delivering her and her bags safely home. I don't know this woman's name. I don't know the French Madame's name either. I call her Madame if anything. I guess this works for her as she didn't reply when I asked her name. She may have thought I was practicing from the list of phrases she gave me. Or perhaps Madame is her preference. She does know my name, but never asked for it. I volunteered the information so she could write something other than an "X" on her calender. She is a very interesting woman and a nice person. I would enjoy her company even if she wasn't teaching me French. She shows me her artwork - gravures- prints she makes from engravings on metal that she makes. She shows me both and tells me about the process and shows the different tools involved in the job. She looks up birds and insects to show me from her many books that line the shelves of the small very full room we work in. She shows me maps and tells me about Les Alpes which I have only been to in Switzerland when I was seventeen, but are quite near here. I feel a little guilty that I am not getting more contact with people speaking French than this as I may not improve at a very rapid rate, but I am having a great time and she could start charging me any time now. I think she is waiting until I can really converse with her. Then she will feel she's done her job...

This is what the main street of Cluny looked like Samedi morning. L'Association Maloquino- a Brazilian word meaning -"petit fou" which means little crazy one, I think. The parade and festival was - Regarde citoyens sur la sante mentale- Citizens looking at mental health. The friends and family of a young, schizophrenic man who was a street performance artist started the association that put on the festival. To help the suffering of persons with troubled psyches, victimes de tabous et d'exclusion, and people with physical and mental infirment. I loved how Orange and out about mental health (and taboo) the parade and festival was! I'm sure it's a great association though I hardly understood a word of the comedian that Sofie and I went to see at the theater or the play they put on a Narthex during the Spectacle de feu that we witnessed in the evening. OK that's not true, but it takes a lot more than a word here and there to understand why everyone's laughing, or standing, or clapping. But I felt the whole thing was for me, as well as others, complete with African music and dancing in the streets. I couldn't have done it better myself.

HiGuy- whose Israeli name I do not know how to spell dropped a bike off for Anja this morning which Caleb fixed and tomorrow we will go for a ride. He is a very nice, English speaking, friend of Caroline's with wife Annabelle and three kids. One of the children speaks English as well and is very sweet and helpful. We ran into them at the Cluny farmer's market on Sunday and went to lunch together. Higuy's son Gabrielle helped us read the menu. Anja is borrowing a bike they are not currently using as it is between children. We are very appreciative as a new one would cost about 100.00 Euro. I just returned from my French lesson, had one yesterday and one tomorrow too. I hope it is helping. HiGuy and Annabelle were meeting other friend for lunch that day one of them was Swiss with an American parent like Caleb. He lives in Loussanne, Switzerland in Co-Housing and invited us to visit when we go to Switzerland. My new massage table arrived today. It was only 119.00 Euro and was supposed to have a tear in the upholstery, but I haven't found one, which is great!
I've decided to quit eating all gluten rather than just wheat as I think it might help me. I decided this in the throes of a flu I came down with Saturday night, while trying to figure out if wheat is Ble or Froment in French. It may be both. This, of course, will be more challenging, but I think I will feel better so it will be worth it. We've been mostly eating vegetarian lately. We bought a chicken (we think) at the butcher. It may have been a wild bird? Or some other kind? It was scrawny and had very chewy dark meat. Perhaps it was meant to have been souped rather than roasted? However Sofie ordered a hamburger at lunch on Saturday and said it was the first thing that was not different to her taste. This is a compliment to Fircrest / Fiesta / whole Foods beef as the beef in this region is said to be very fine.
Saturday morning I also did Caroline's job of carrying a woman's bags back to her house from the market. This was enjoyable as she spoke simple French to me that I could understand unlike any I've heard really. It is a tourist town in which there is very little English spoken. Even my French teacher speaks quickly, and doesn't speak English. She has quite a few students from Laos, I've noticed. I
do not feel confident that the children will learn French as they are not in school, but they are certainly becoming more computer savvy by the day.

BACK ONLINE

We were only off for a short while, but we were a bit worried. It's amazing how much we use this little machine. I ordered my massage table today from Germany by phone of all ways before we got back online. Actually it wasn't working via the computer due to an American address on my credit card. So I called to order a damaged one for 119.00 Euro. It has a centimeter size tear in the upholstery according to the dealer. Good deal anyway. Our transformer was the cause of our computer distress. It burnt up, or blew a fuse. Very smelly. I suspect it was more than the fuse. Caleb bought an adaptor this time as our computer works with 220 as well. I had my first formal French lesson today. The instructor wouldn't accept any money. She will trade massage though which is great. So I have my first client before my table arrives. Unfortunately Tom and Caroline are leaving tomorrow for almost a month. They are going to Ireland to visit friends and family. They are traveling by boat and train. It should give us a chance to try out our French wings so to speak. People here have been fabulously friendly. I get big smiles when I use two simple words, "Madame and Monsuier." Tres facile to please! Everyone thinks the children should be in school here. We are going to look into it for Sofie. Anja out right refuses as usual. It would be great for them to learn a second language so I'm all for it. Another generation of monolingual Americans seems unnecessary at best. Sofie is interested. We will check it out soon. I have another French lesson tomorrow. The teacher is very nice. She is an artist as well. She makes engravings and prints out of them. She is also I think a naturalist and a pacifist. Her husband leads a group of pacifists that act as witnesses to violence in other countries. I forgot what they are called. Tom told us a bit about it. In any case, everyone here is very friendly.